How to Hem Curtains with Hem Tape

Learn how to hem curtains with hem tape in 5 simple steps - no sewing machine needed. I'll show you how to measure and cut your curtains, apply iron-on hemming tape, and get a clean finished edge at the length you want.

before and after of long curtains hemmed with hem tape.

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Let me introduce you to your newest home shortcut. Iron-on hemming tape uses heat-activated adhesive to hold a folded hem in place, so you can shorten curtain panels without stitching them.

This was one of those projects I'd put off for way too long. Our living room and bedroom curtains were way too long, and not in a cute, slightly pooled kind of way.

brown curtains that are too long.

The white liner constantly showed at the bottom, and there was so much extra fabric on the floor that our robot vacuum would catch it.

curtains pooling on a floor with extra fabric.

I finally decided to shorten them with hemming tape instead of sewing them. It ended up being a really simple project, and I was able to keep the slightly pooled curtain length I love!

Can You Hem Curtains with Hem Tape?

You sure can! Iron-on hem tape is an easy way to shorten curtains without sewing. The tape goes between two layers of fabric and bonds them together when you apply heat with an iron.

I like this method for a few reasons...

  • You don't need a sewing machine. The entire hem is held in place with the adhesive.
  • It's pretty quick. Once your curtains are measured and cut, the actual hemming doesn't take long.
  • There are no visible stitches. The tape is hidden inside the folded hem.
  • It works with lots of curtain fabrics. You just need to make sure your tape and iron temperature work with the material you're using.

For this project, I was working with fairly heavy polyester curtain panels and used ⅝-inch iron-on hemming tape.

Before you start, check the care label on your curtains and the instructions on your hemming tape. Different fabrics and brands of tape can need different heat settings.

Supplies Needed

You don't have to use a cutting mat, quilting ruler, and rotary cutter. Sharp fabric scissors will work too.

That said, the rotary cutting setup makes it a lot easier to get a straight line across a wide curtain panel. I use these supplies all the time for fabric projects, including my t-shirt quilt.

How to Use Hemming Tape on Curtains

The basic process is pretty simple. You'll decide where you want the curtains to fall, cut off the extra fabric, attach the hemming tape, fold up the bottom edge, and iron the hem in place.

Here's exactly how I did mine!

Step 1: Measure the Curtains for the New Hem

measuring curtains on a floor with a ruler; lots of excess fabric on the floor.

Start by hanging the curtains on the rod exactly as they'll be used. It's way easier to figure out the right length when they're actually hanging in the room.

Decide how you want the bottoms to fall. Curtains can:

  • Hang slightly above the floor
  • Barely touch the floor
  • Break slightly at the floor
  • Pool on the floor

I like mine to have a little bit of pooling at the bottom.

My curtains originally extended about 8 inches past the point where they first touched the floor. I wanted to leave about 3 inches of fabric past that point before hemming, so I needed to cut about 5 inches off the bottom.

Since I later folded up a 1-inch hem, the finished curtains ended up with about 2 inches of fabric resting on the floor.

How Much Fabric Should You Leave for a Curtain Hem?

This really depends on how you want your curtains to hang.

For the slightly pooled look in my photos, I left about 3 inches of fabric past the point where the curtains touched the floor before making the hem.

If you want your finished curtains to just barely touch the floor, leave closer to 1.5 inches of extra fabric before hemming. That gives you enough room for a 1-inch hem with a little bit of wiggle room.

When in doubt, leave them a little too long. You can always trim more fabric later!

Step 2: Cut Off the Extra Curtain Fabric

You can absolutely do this with regular fabric scissors, but I found a cutting mat, quilting ruler, and rotary cutter much easier.

curtain fabric on a quilting mat with ruler.

Lay the curtain panel flat on the cutting mat and straighten the bottom edge using the guides. Measure out the amount you figured out in Step 1.

Line up the quilting ruler across the curtain and use the rotary cutter to remove the excess fabric.

cutting curtain fabric with a rotary cutter, using a quilting ruler.

You'll probably need to work across the curtain in a few sections. Just go slowly and make sure the curtain and ruler are lined up before every cut.

The main goal here is to get the new raw edge as straight as possible so your finished hem doesn't look crooked.

How to Cut Curtains Without a Rotary Cutter

If you don't have a cutting mat or rotary cutter, sharp fabric scissors work too! Measure the amount you need to remove and make several small marks across the back of the curtain with a pencil or fabric marker.

Use a ruler or straight edge to make sure those marks are even, then carefully cut across the panel.

You can also fold the curtain along your cutting line first and cut along the fold. Just make sure that fold stays straight all the way across.

Step 3: Apply the Iron-On Hem Tape

hem tape and curtain, with iron on top.

Once the extra fabric is cut off, it's time for the hemming tape. I used ⅝" iron-on hem tape because these curtain panels are on the heavier side.

ironing hem tape onto curtain.

Place the tape along the raw edge on the back side of the curtain, following the directions that come with your hemming tape.

With the tape I used, I first ironed one side of the tape onto the curtain fabric.

peeling hem tape backing off of curtain after ironing hem tape on.

Then I peeled off the paper backing, leaving the adhesive behind. Try to position the hemming tape close to the raw edge while still leaving a tiny bit of fabric below it.

The heat setting is going to depend on both your hemming tape and your curtain fabric. Follow the directions on the tape package and check your curtain's care label before turning up the heat. This is really important with polyester and other synthetic fabrics.

Loving this tutorial so far? You'll also love my Faux Crown Molding and Blanket Ladder tutorials!

Step 4: Fold and Iron the Curtain Hem

measuring a 1 inch curtain hem with a ruler.

Once the hemming tape is in place, fold about 1 inch of the bottom edge toward the back of the curtain. The tape should now be sandwiched between the curtain panel and that folded section of fabric.

Measure every so often as you work across the panel to make sure the fold stays close to 1 inch.

ironing hem of curtain.

Press the folded hem with your iron according to the directions for the hemming tape you're using. Go slowly and give the adhesive enough heat and pressure to bond.

ironing hem of curtain.

With mine, I found that pressing the iron in one spot for a few seconds worked better than quickly moving it back and forth.

Again, don't just crank your iron all the way up. Use the temperature recommended for your tape and make sure it's safe for your curtain fabric. And don't use steam!

measuring a 1 inch hem on a curtain.

I checked the width of the hem about every foot or so to make sure it stayed close to 1 inch.

It doesn't have to be exact down to the millimeter. You just don't want the fold gradually getting wider or narrower as you move across the panel.

curtains, upside down, on an ironing board, after ironing on hem tape.

Once you're finished, let the adhesive cool for a few minutes before pulling on the hem or moving the curtain around too much.

Step 5: Finish the Corners

Once you get to the ends of the curtain panel, you might have a small bit of folded fabric sticking out at the corners.

cutting back corner of curtain hem diagonally.

Use fabric shears to carefully trim that extra fabric at an angle.

diagonally cut corner of the back of the curtain.

You'll probably never see the back of the curtain, but trimming those corners keeps extra fabric from peeking out along the sides.

The Finished Hemmed Curtains

bottom of brown hemmed curtain panels hung on a window next to table.

Here's how mine turned out! I wanted the curtains to pool slightly on the floor, so I intentionally left them a little longer than floor length.

If you'd rather have your curtains just brush the floor, cut off a little more fabric before making the hem.

The biggest thing I learned from this project is to be conservative with that first cut. If you're not sure, trim a little less than you think you need to, hang the curtains again, and check the length. You can always take off more, but you can't add back.

Tips for Hemming Curtains with Hem Tape

A few things make this project go a lot more smoothly...

  • Measure the curtains while they're hanging. This gives you the best idea of where the finished edge will actually land.
  • Measure every curtain panel separately. Don't assume they're all exactly the same length.
  • Leave a little extra fabric before cutting. It's much easier to shorten a curtain again than fix one that's too short.
  • Use a sharp cutting tool. Dull scissors can pull the fabric and make it harder to get a clean edge.
  • Test the hem tape on scrap fabric first. This lets you check the heat setting and make sure the adhesive works with your curtain fabric.
  • Use the right tape for your fabric. Heavier curtains may need stronger or wider hemming tape, and some fabrics can't handle high heat.
  • Measure as you go. Checking the hem width every foot or so helps keep the finished edge straight.

FAQs & Troubleshooting

If your curtains are washable, wash and dry them according to the care label before measuring and hemming. Some curtain fabrics can shrink during the first wash, so hemming them first could leave you with curtains that are too short later.

Hem tape usually doesn't stick well because the iron isn't hot enough, there isn't enough pressure, the fabric isn't clean and smooth, or the tape isn't strong enough for the fabric. Let the area cool before testing the bond, and always follow the heat and timing directions for your specific tape.

If a section comes loose, check the tape instructions to see if it can be pressed again, then reapply heat and pressure to that area. If it keeps releasing, the tape may not be strong enough or compatible with your curtain fabric, and replacing it with a heavier-duty tape may work better.

Measure the hem at several points across the entire panel instead of measuring only at the ends. Pressing a straight crease before permanently attaching the tape also gives you a guide to follow and makes it much easier to keep the finished hem even.

You can, and pressing a crease first can make it easier to keep the finished hem straight. With the hemming tape I used, I attached the tape to the raw edge first, folded the fabric up about 1 inch, and then ironed everything together. Follow the directions for your specific tape, since the application process can vary by brand.

Sometimes, but test it first. Sheer and mesh fabrics can be more difficult because the adhesive may show through the fabric or the material may not tolerate the heat needed to activate the tape. A lightweight tape made for delicate fabric is a better option than heavy-duty hemming tape.

Have you used hem tape to hem curtains in your home? I'd love to hear about your results! Let me know how it went in the comments. 💭

leslie lambert, author of lamberts lately.

Leslie Lambert is a lifestyle writer and content creator specializing in home organization, family recipes, and intentional living. With 17 years of experience in blogging and digital storytelling, she helps busy women create calm, purposeful homes they love.

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3 Comments

  1. Hi Leslie, sorry if I missed this, but if you're going to end up folding the hem up an inch after you apply the tape, then shouldn't the amount you cut off be reduced by an inch? So if you want your curtains 8" shorter, you'd cut off 7" and fold it up an inch when the tape is applied? Thank you for letting me know!

    1. Leslie Lambert says:

      I recommend going a little longer than your want your seam to be. So, if you're using a 1" seam and need them 8" shorter, I would cut to 6.5" (and that would get you to barely brushing the floor). You can always go shorter, but you can't add back! If you want a little bit of a pool of fabric on the floor (what I prefer), I recommend a 3" seam allowance - so in that example above, I would cut off 5".

  2. I bought a curtain liner to help with sunlight and it’s longer than my grommet drapes by about 1inch. I’m going to use iron on tape to shorten them.